West Texas: Marfa (City Dirt)

Our final stop on the West Texas/Hill Country road trip was Marfa. This tiny town has become a very popular destination for minimalist art lovers and the lesbian hotspot of West Texas. The Marfa phenomena was started in the 1970's by Donald Judd (the art movement, not the Sapphic influence). He chose Marfa for the installation of his large-scale artworks--the wide-open space and bare landscape made the perfect setting. With the help of the Dia Foundation of New York City, a visual arts organization, Judd purchased the 340 acres that used to be Ft. D.A. Russell and began construction and installation in 1979. It's now run by the Chinati Foundation the old barracks house the like of Dan Flavin light sculptures and paintings by John Wesley.

This town became a media darling during the last decade, and I'm guilty of promoting it. I wrote a travel article on Marfa in 2005 for the Los Angeles Times. I got paid back for this, as we barely secured hotel rooms at the Thunderbird, breakfast required an hour wait, we didn't get to go on a tour of the Chinati art barracks as it was full and even the afternoon tour of Donald Judd's house had been booked solid--but I took some pics of Judd's courtyard. And my grandfather danced with a lesbian couple.

Donald Judd's sculptures were known for their simple, geometric forms. These tables also have this. Judd dictated that nothing in his house be changed after his death, so I'm assuming these tables were either his creations, or at the least, chosen by him.

Donald Judd also believed in clarity--the way objects defined space and vice versa. The pool and pergola in his yard are simple, functional geometric shapes.

Here is a resident of Marfa rebelling against the tyranny of Judd's minimalism.

The Thunderbird Hotel is a roadside motel turned trendy, minimalist hotel. It's owned by Liz Lambert who also owns the San Jose Hotel in Austin. These are both great places to stay if you like modern design. The Thunderbird decor echoes the West Texas landscape and the minimalism of Chinati. It is however often hipper-than-thou, so don't expect the old Texas friendliness by patrons or employees here.

Living fence made of ocotillo around the pool.

The Thunderbird Hotel now has a small bar. I found out that my grandfather and aunt had driven from El Paso to meet up with us, and they were drinking beers in the Thunderbird bar. Hipsters were dancing in the small room and one woman pulled my grandfather out on the floor. She was quite drunk and repeatedly told me how adorable my grandfather was and that if she wasn't married, she would be all over him. I suggested she be gentle, as he's 89 years old. She didn't think he looked a day over 65. She mentioned being married a few more times, then lo and behold introduced me to her wife. I shook her hand and made sure that she had met my grandfather. I asked him to turn up his hearing aid just in case he missed the introduction and snapped this picture for him to keep with his holiday memories.

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West Texas: Marfa

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