There are some great places in Northern California to visit during apple season. The Alan Chadwick Garden, at the University of California, Santa Cruz upper garden at UC Santa Cruz is testimony to Orin Martin's obsession with apples and their many varieties. At the Green Gulch Farm and Zen Center, people told Wendy Johnson that she wouldn't be able to grow apples in such foggy coastal weather but she proved them wrong and there's now an orchard of espaliered, cordoned and dwarf apple trees. A Slow Food movement is gaining momentum to save the Gravenstein's in Sonoma County as grapevines are squeezing out the apple orchards.

In Yosemite National Park, there's a peculiar clash between preserving historical orchards and wildlife being drawn to invasive apple trees. James Lamon homesteaded in 1859 and planted two orchards, one near today's Valley Stables and the second at what is known as Curry Village Apple Orchard (and parking lot.) He planted over 1000 trees, including apple varieties like Winesaps, Gravenstein, Russet and Fall Pippin, along with pears, peaches, plums, nectarines and almonds. In 1865 James M. Hutchings came to live in the valley and opened a hotel, which is now near the present day Ahwahnee Hotel. He installed an orchard of 150 trees in the area that included the varieties Spitzenberg, Winesap, King, Rhode Island Greenings, and Northern Spy, along with Bartlett and Seckel pear trees. Both homesteaders lost their land to the state in the late 1800's, but the area continued to develop as an agricultural center until the 1900's when the National Park Service started focusing on preservation of native wildlife. This wildlife, particularly the bears, loved the apples.

Yosemite bears are known for being particularly resourceful. According to Kari Cobb, media spokesperson for The National Park Service, "The apples bring bears into the parking lot and draws them up into trees. Not only does this cause more human-bear contact, which we always want to avoid, this gives them a better view of cars where they can spot food or other interesting items, so it causes more break-ins." The park service believes it's important for the trees to remain, as they are remnants of the park's history, but they will eventually die out as part of the natural process. So in the meantime, there is a rigorous apple harvest once a year before the bears are drawn to them. It's timed so that fruit and blossoms are shaken from the tree, collected and disposed of--pies are generally the preferred way. This usually happens in mid-August and all visitors can participate. Find out how to volunteer at www.nps.gov. Not only are some fruit unripe, but they are of varied quality to start with.

According to horticulturalist John Valenzuela, principal at Cornucopia Food Forests Gardens and member of California Rare Fruit Growers Society, "Often, from the many poor quality eating apples (at Yosemite), a few would be of outstanding eating or cooking quality, becoming well loved and then named for the place, a family member, or some quality of the fruit." The loss of these specialty varieties have some of California's rare fruit growers worried but the park service has assured that genomes have been saved at UC Davis.

Recipe: Roasted Apple and Gorgonzola Tart by Percy Whatley, Executive Chef at Ahwahnee Dining Room

A French style pizzaladiere (Pizza) that can be made well ahead and eaten at room temperature. It is, of course very yummy right out of the oven. Try it with an Alsatian wine and you will be amazed at how comforting this dish can be.

Serves 6 (2 Tarts)
Tart Dough Ingredients:

Cake Flour 3 oz
Bread Flour 3 oz
Butter 3 oz
Salt ½ tsp
Water 3 Tblsp

1. Mix flours and salt.
2. Cut butter into dry mix with a fork or a pastry cutter until you have pea sized grains.
3. Add water and knead for 3 minutes.
4. Wrap and let rest for 45 minutes to 1 hour prior to rolling out.

Toppings:

Apples (Granny Smith or Fuji), peeled and diced large 2 each
Cinnamon Sticks 1 each
Nutmeg pinch
Brown Sugar 2 tsp
Extra Virgin Olive Oil 1 tsp
Thyme Stick, fresh 1 each
Marsala Wine 3 Tblsp
Salt and Black Pepper as needed
Gorgonzola, crumbled 2 oz
Cippolini Onions, sliced, sautéed in olive oil and cooled 2 oz
Hazelnuts, toasted, chopped ½ oz
Watercress, washed 1 oz
Basic Vinaigrette (for watercress) splash

1. Heat a sauté pan over medium heat. Add oil and apples, begin a slow caramelization tossing occasionally to prevent burning. This should take approximately 10 minutes.
2. Add thyme, cinnamon and nutmeg and let sizzle in the oil for aroma.
3. Add brown sugar and continue cooking for 5 minutes.
4. Deglaze with wine and let reduce to almost completely dry. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Reserve apples for tart production.

Tart Production:

1. Preheat oven to 450F.
2. Roll out half of the dough with a little flour to a little less than ¼ inch thick and about 8 inches across (thickness similar to pie dough)
3. Lay out on a cookie sheet, sprinkle caramelized apples, onions, gorgonzola crumbles and toasted hazelnuts.
4. Roll up the edges of the tart and apply a little pressure to hold the dough crust together so that the toppings do not melt off of the crust.
5. Bake for 10-15 minutes or until the crust is golden brown. Remove from oven and let rest for 5 minutes prior to cutting.
Cut each tart into 6 pieces.

Calendar Buzz

Devils Gulch Ranch is having their Educational Services Fall Fundraiser. See the vineyards and critters including pigs, sheep, horses and rabbits from 3:00-5:00 at no charge, or if you'd prefer taste Marin County wines as well as Devil's Gulch sausage from 3:00-6:00 and then head over for dinner and a silent auction at Druid's Hall. For more information and to reserve a space, visit the Devil's Gulch website .

Vintners' Holidays from November 1-December 3rd, 2009 will be at the historic Ahwahnee Hotel in Yosemite Park. Enjoy wine tastings, panel discussions, and experience rare, small production or private vintages. The grand finale is dinner to compliment the wine in the Ahwahnee Dining. Visit their website for more information.